2

Just wanted to get some best practices or opinions on this. I have two teenage sons that want to make some money on one of my flips. The house has literally no insulation - maybe 4 inches at its peaks and not solid throughout. So I told them they could install baffles, mark electricity and put in insulation.

The current baffles are just 12" of cardboard, flimsily installed but doing their job given the insulation isn't loose fill. I would like to install something like this baffle. Given the roof doesn't have a huge slope the areas where you install the baffles are extremely small.

Is there any way to make this process easier? Any suggestions on install method or a type of baffle that would make retrofitting easier?

DMoore
  • 50,637
  • 16
  • 93
  • 208

3 Answers3

2

I currently have this existing problem. I had to engineer a solution that was acceptable. First, I removed the damaged, moldy insulation, and sprayed some mold killer while the ventilation was fully open. It killed the majority of the mold on the trusses.

I then bought the plastic vent chutes, which are 14 inches, perfect for my 16" on center trusses. Next, I bought some 2 inch thick high density rigid foam (Pink Stuff) and cut the profile of the vent chute into the foam. I then affixed the vent chute to the foam with pan head screws (coarse thread).

I was now able to push the attic vent into place where the wall framing meets the truss. I would staple them in place as far as the arm would go. To seal the rigid insulation near the end, I used a foam sealer which allows me to seal the small gaps and push the vent up into place if not fully against the roof deck.

ThreePhaseEel
  • 87,685
  • 36
  • 144
  • 243
Bill Winczner
  • 21
  • 2
1

Two obvious but invasive ways are to:

  1. Take up the roof sheeting and work the baffles from above the rafters.
  2. Remove the ceiling drywall under the baffle area and install the baffles from below.

With a low sloped roof trying to work within the confines of the attic will be very difficult. If there are protruding roofing nails the tight areas can be dangerous if you bang your head or arms against the nails. And hope that the workers are not claustrophobic.

I have a roof pitch of 5/12 over my garage attic and I can say even at that slope it is very difficult (but still possible) to squirm down into the spaces to work at the outer wall area. With a pitch of 3/12 I think I would be contemplating one of the invasive measures above. If the roof is shot and needs replacing use #1 else go with the ceiling removal as in #2.

FreeMan
  • 48,261
  • 26
  • 101
  • 206
Michael Karas
  • 67,833
  • 7
  • 68
  • 153
1

Our 46-year-old tract house has a 3-in-12 pitch truss roof, loose Rockwool insulation, and no baffles at all, not even the cardboard. The 2 x 4 studs are 24-inches OC. The roof sheathing is minimal thickness and maybe someday I will redo the sheathing. At that time I will have baffles installed.

If and when I put in bats without adding baffles, I was going to try laying them perpendicular to the ceiling joists, at least at the perimeter. I think this would allow enough airflow over the top of the bats. I don't think a lot of effort to introduce baffles is worth it. I have worked in this attic a lot and the danger from roofing nails is real. I once worked my way all the out to the edge to pull wiring and I will never do it again. The webbing of the double Fink trusses restricts movements. I would not put teenagers in that situation because breathing in loose Rockwool (and whatever else is in that air!) is not healthy.

Jim Stewart
  • 22,784
  • 1
  • 34
  • 53