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My son has this little car he drives around and the reverse direction stopped working. I took it apart, did some hard-wiring tests and found that the switch was failing (both gear work if I hard-wire the connection that the switch is responsible for making.)

This is the exact switch but it is out of stock, and I can't find it anywhere else online. Must a 6 pin replacement switch be exactly 20A, 250VAC? Or can either parameter vary? if so, how much more or less?

JacobIRR
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4 Answers4

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Here is a switch that should do the trick for you. It is rated at 22A/250V. Mounting hole size looks to be the same as the Aliexpress item that you linked.

enter image description here

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-20A-125V-22A-250V-DPDT-6-Terminal-2-Position-Boat-Rocker-Switch/272975729244?hash=item3f8e9f125c:g:XFsAAOSwnPla8b-Z

Michael Karas
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If you know the actual parameters then you can downgrade based on the actual parameters used.

If you don't know, then play it safe. You can always go UP - e.g., 30A instead of 20A or 500VAC instead of 250VAC.

It is quite likely that the switch has far higher specs than actually needed for the circuit, but without knowing how the device works (how is it powered & how much power does it use), it is impossible to guess.

But I'll guess anyway - my hunch is that the voltage is lower, and very likely DC rather than AC - perhaps 12VDC or 24VDC. DC voltage is continuous, where AC cycles, but while that means 250VDC would likely require a better switch than 250VAC, a more typical (for a toy) 12VDC would not, and in fact a 250VAC switch is probably far more than needed. But more details are needed to know for sure.

manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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That type of switch should be readily available from electronics suppliers such as Mouser, Digi-Key, Galco, etc.

You want a

  • Rocker switch
  • Termination: Quick Connect Terminal aka spade
  • Mounting style: panel (meaning it goes in a rectangle)
  • Contact form: DPDT
  • Switch function: on-on; or on-off-on if you want a "neutral" position
  • Markings: same as the old switch (probably blank, certainly not 0/1)
  • Current: 20A or larger
  • DC Voltage: (actual working voltage of your car, or larger)

Measure carefully and check the data sheets for the physical dimensions, you should have no trouble finding a UL-listed (as a component) switch. Everything sold by these shops will be UL listed or equivalent.

Expect prices in the $1-4 range + domestic shipping.

Don't even think of buying from the infinite fountain of "cheap"* Cheese junk: Alibaba, Aliexpress, Alianything, eBay, Amazon "Marketplace" etc. -- especially at those prices. $7 for a switch are they kidding??? I'm troubled that all the links in this Q&A so far are all that garbage. Stop buying that.

* $7 for a switch. SMH...

Harper - Reinstate Monica
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I have replaced several of these switches on the gear shift. A standard R11 DPDT switch 16 amp switch is what power wheels use. Look at the side of the switch and you will find a number similar to R11. I only had a switch body on the shelf but I believe the last one was on-off-on for the gear shift. This is the important part because a different switch is used for the "gas" pedal it was a R11-8 DPDT switch that is momentary on-off. So as long as you get the same type double pole double throw 6 pins that is rated at the same or more amperage it can work. FWIW, I usually purchase several at a time but I have several of these for grandkids. And both the shifter and gas pedal tend to go out.

manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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Ed Beal
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