How do I have to run the SER cables from the original hole(where the SER cable goes through the wall) to the side of the new panel?
Can SER cable be exposed or needs to be inside a conduit? Conduit type? AFAIK I can not use EMT, the city inspector says that, and she is not very friendly on providing such information.
Edit/Update:
Here is the entire picture of old and new panel
EDIT about Service cable entrance
I see where there is a cripple wall or something preventing you from fitting the new taller panel where the Zinsco had been.
Well first, I would go back to the drawing board and see if I could find a panel that fits inside the space the old Zinsco is coming out of. However your first priority is a whole lot of spaces, so I would only bother looking at CH or QO, since they put 40 spaces where other panels only put 30. In this day and age, you want 40.
If you just can't find a 40 that fits there at sane price, then continue with your original plan.
I presume you've considered laying a piece of plywood atop the pictured joists where the Zinsco was, with the new panel's entry hole lined up perfect with the conduit nipple, and extending the nipple as needed. I can see where that would create an access problem for one conduit entry at the bottom. Okay.
I consider the idea of using exposed flexible cable to be beneath discussion. It is on the wrong side of the main breaker, if it got hit with something, nothing would stop the arc fire. The bend would be freakish and very, very hard. You need XHHW single conductors just to make this DIY doable, and that needs conduit.
But that's no big.
Oh? She doesn't want EMT? Alrighty then... use RIGID. Realistically, you will need a conduit body to turn that corner anyway. That leaves only about 3 inches to go with actual conduit. Rigid is pricey stuff, but that doesn't matter for 3 inches.
When you tear out that ZINSCO panel, there will be a "pipe nut" that you unwind with a hammer and screwdriver. Once the panel is out, underneath that is probably a Rigid pipe nipple (a nipple is a short pipe) with pipe threads. Test fit the conduit body and see how much distance you need. You either replace that nipple with a longer one, or add a coupler and a short nipple to reach the conduit body, depending on what is practicable.
With Rigid conduit, you go to a competent hardware store who cuts and threads pipe (and shoplifters), and buy the right length and have them thread it.
Now, the only other risk is that the conduit body is so wide that it forces the new panel to the left. Could be. If that knocks it off the joists, get a sheet of 3/4” plywood about 33.5" (or wide enough to span 3 joists and 2 spaces) x the height of the new panel + 6”.
Then, you will need to account for the thickness of the plywood in the above nipple. So test fit everything first!
Then, you use appropriate sized XHHW wire. If the price of copper wire gives you pause, use aluminum wire 2 sizes larger. All 100A+ terminals are designed for aluminum wire and have aluminum lugs.
Remember, this is a whole domicile service, so you get the 83% favorable derate from NEC 310.15B7.
Many ways to do this. First, is this the main panel? If so, SEU is the wire needed. Two hots And a ground.
If you have a meter main, or breaker outside, then the panel is a sub-panel and you need 4 wire ser. I don't see why you can not nipple through meter into panel. And remove the short studs in the way. Use pvc as it's a little easier to work with.
SEU is allowed and is done all the time without conduit. Just have to watch length of wire. And you could sleeve it to protect or not.
Make sure you bond the panel if a main, which should come with bond screw, or you have to get ground bar to add to panel and not bond panel. White or neutral to bar on panel. Bare grounds to added ground bar. Also check the ground rods . and wire to them.
If this the main panel run water bond to it. If sub-panel water bond goes to meter main outside.Cover hole bay with plywood, screw on so easy to add wires later. And mark the ground wire, green tape or bare. By doing this you do not have to run cable in conduit. Only were they are open in the garage which should be done where they come down to outlets or switches. Up high on joist is ok as long as nothing stored up there.
