Can a triple stud be replaced with a thinner, stronger material?

Question

We have a galley kitchen and our fridge takes up a lot of room when the door is open. I'd like to recess it back into the wall using some empty space in the dining room directly behind it.

However when I opened the wall I discovered a triple stud that is load-bearing, supporting a floor joist that terminates directly above it. Because of this termination point and that the triple stud is situated on the corner of the wall, I don't have room to slide it back.

Top view:

             X
      ^      |
    fridge   |
             |
             |
--X----X---XXX = = = = = = = > joist
  |  
  |
  |           dining room
  X

Elevation from behind the fridge:

--+----+---+++
  |    |   |||
  |    |   |||
  |    |   |||
  |    |   |||
  |    |   |||
  |    |   |||
  |    |   |||
--+----+---+++

I could probably sister a new stud to the opposite side of the existing triple but that would also mean the wall would no longer be flush on the dining room side which I'd rather avoid.

It might be possible to rotate the triple studs with a new top/bottom plate, but the edges would overlap the load bearing wall underneath it and I'm not sure how that would work out. Beefing up the wall next to the fridge (and its extension) also I don't think will work as there's no columns under the adjacent floor joists.

So I'm looking then to replace the triple stud altogether with a stronger material if possible. Ideally I want this wall to get to with a cripple and header in place of the middle stud:

--+----+---- +
  |    |     I
  +----+-----+ 
  |          I 
  |          I 
  |          I 
  |          I 
  |          I
--+----+-----+

Is there a readily available material I can use in place of the triple stud that has similar load-bearing characteristics but only takes up the space of a double stud??

Note: this question is similar to Can I modify a load bearing triple stud? but as I don't think I can rotate the triple stud or transfer the load via a span over to adjacent columns, looking for alternative materials rather than seeking to modify a portion of the triple stud.

Answer 1

There’s four things to consider: 1) structurally support the vertical load from the 3 joists (beam) above, 2) insure there is adequate support under the new post all the way to a footing, 3) adequately support the beam from crushing, 4) provide a support for material wrapping around the post.

1. we don’t know what the load is on that existing post, but we can assume the triple stud is adequate. Therefore, we can match the strength of the existing post with a new skinny post. I’d use a steel 3”x3” x3/16” wall thickness column, which is MORE than twice as strong as the triple stud post. (I checked for 8’ and 9’ high.) Make sure the steel plates (top and bottom) are bolted into the beam above and floor below with at least 2 - 1/2” bolts.

2. if the triple stud sat on the subfloor, then there needs to be additional blocking under the post down to the ground.

3. You’ll need to provide a steel bearing plate at the top and bottom of the steel column that matches the area of the triple stud. Wood compresses easier in side grain than end grain. Therefore, to insure that the beam does not compress, the steel plate must be the same size as the triple stud.

4. If gypsum board is wrapped around the triple studs, then some wood blocking will need to be added to support the gypsum board.

Answer 2

Yes. Replace with a telepost. We have 3 in our basement holding up the triple 2x10 that all the floor joists rest on. Here in Canada about $80. Probably $50 in the U.S.

Edit in answer to a comment. The one in my house is 2 3/8" 2.375" The pin used to select which hole to use is longer, than this, but can be oriented along the length of the wall. The plate at the top end is 4" square. You could either trim this by 1/4" on either side to bring it down to 3.5" stud width, or cut a groove in the drywall for it, or cut a slot for the drywall, then fill with mud.