The manual is vague, but I think the trick here is what I like to call "old wattage".
Back in the not-so-dark dark ages of light bulbs, everything was incandescent. Incandescent wattage was important because a light bulb with a 100 watt fillament puts out a LOT more heat than a 60 watt bulb. So if you put a higher watt bulb into many fixtures, it could do things like start fires. As such, you'll see a lot of fixtures rated for, say, "60 watt bulb maximum".
CFL and LED changed the rules because they produced the same lumens (measurement of light) without all that wasted heat. But people didn't learn lumens, they learned "old wattage". They want the same light that a 60 watt incandescent bulb produced. As such, CFL and LED are often labeled in "old wattage". I have a bathroom fixture that says "60 watts maximum", but I have a "75 watt" LED that uses a paltry 11 watts. It works because there's no serious heat generated.
That brings me to your light. It says "9 watt maximum", but that can't possibly be a limit. In order to have a hard 9 watt maximum, it would ridiculously small wiring (1 amp = 120 watts, and most small wires will carry that little easily). I seriously doubt your fixture has wires that small. But if we compare a 9 watt bulb to "old wattage", we find it's really a "60 watt" bulb.
Illuminating with the equivalent of a 60-Watt incandescent bulb but only consumes 9W of power, making these daylight led bulbs one of the best energy efficient lighting.
This now makes sense, because a lot of fixtures (especially fan lights) have labels that say "60 watt maximum". If this were a hard 9 watts, there would be warning labels screaming that fact everywhere.