Suggestion on deck frame joinery

Question

I am planning to build a deck to my backyard, and I'm using a soft wood - I guess it's spruce not sure / not a very high quality wood.

I am having hard time to decide on choosing the construction method and hoping I can get a suggestion here. In short I'm concerned of making a weak frame or having a too tall frame.

I feel like option 3 and 4 are my best bets, it feels strong enough and height-wise it is going to be acceptable for what I'm doing. I just couldn't decide which option to go with.

Let me list all my options my concerns regarding to them:

Note: I am planning to put 9 10cmx10cmx20cm legs under this frame.

Note2: Joist hangers are not an option in where I live, can't get them locally and couldn't find any shipping to Turkey for a reasonable price. (let me know if you know a seller in Turkey :)

Note3: Joists are 5cm X 10cm (2" by 4"), Stringer is 10cm X 10cm (4" by 4").

Note4: Deck size is 390cm X 290cm (12'9" x 9'6").

Option 1:

Pros

• Overall height is short enough that I can easily put the frame and the planks on them in my 15cm of skirts.

Cons

• I'm afraid it will be too weak.

Option 2:

Pros

• It will be plenty sturdy.

Cons

• It is too tall (20cm) and will not be hidden in my 15cm skirt all around the deck.
• Not sure how I can join 10X10 and 5X10 on top of each other.

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Option 3:

Option 4:

Answer 1

Given that you don't have joist hangers, the solution seems clear to me.

• Set your three posts under three beams.
• Lay your joists across the beams.

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This way there are no long spans and no concentrated loads. There will also be no butt joints to worry about. Just don't notch anything. You want all the stiffness and strength you can get. Toenail the joists onto the beams and call it good.

You can add a rim joist to the ends if you like, and you could bring the end beams inboard a few inches to create a small cantilever. That might look nicer.

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Answer 2

Go to the library and check out a book on building decks. There are commonly accepted specifications and construction methods for decks, and a good book will walk you through the design and building processes.

Also, local building codes may have something to say about the construction of a deck.

Answer 3

How about adding an option (5).

The thinking is to evenly distribute the floor load to the edge beams, so the edge beams will be stressed less and deflect less than a concentrated load from the center joist. Since it is now stiffer and the space between joists is much smaller for the deck board to bridge over, the board can be thinner, and directly nailed to the joists instead of needing other hardware. My answer only provides the concept, as for the size of the lumbers and spacing of the joist, a structural engineer shall be consulted.

Answer 4

Lose the middle beam

If the joists need support in the middle use bricks or masonry units or something else that won't rot if it's partially buried.

if you need to prevent the joists from twisting use blocking between them.