I'm trying to replace a 22mm isolating valve (the lower of the 2 pictured), which is sitting directly between 2 pipes such that there's no room to get a spanner in:
Even removing the valve on the left to help access is proving tricky due to lack of space. Any ideas?
You need a decent set of "flare wrenches" for that. Like a box-end wrench cut open to fit over the tube (which is one crude way to get there if you can't easily lay hands on the right tool.) Per this wikipedia article, flare spanner, flare nut spanner, brake spanner and crow's foot spanner might be more local terms (and crow's foot means something else altogether over here. except the same term is used for the same thing over there, too.)
This is a picture of a not particularly decent set from a rather low-end supplier. Better quality ones of better/stronger materials and better workmanship have thinner walls around the wrench part enabling use with less clearance (and cost more.)
Ok, so @bobflux had the answer. With the plaster removed, I was able to pop the pipe forward out of its clip, pushing the compression nuts clear of the neighbouring pipes.
Job done. Thanks all
@ecnerwal gave a workable solution, but before you go ahead and attempt to remove the valve, you might try a direct assault on the valve while it's still in place with the goal of getting it to operate.
I've had luck getting a valve to un-stick by applying heat and vibration while repeatedly forcing the valve handle back and forth.
For heat, protect the area behind the pipes with something fireproof, then hit the valve with a torch. Go as hot as you dare, with consideration for seals.
For vibration, nothing beats an air hammer with a flat-faced impact tool. It could beat on one of the flats of one of the nuts and send waves of vibration through the valve. Vibrate while trying to open/close the valve, and it may eventually start moving.
And at least if it doesn't work, everyone in the house will know you're working on it!
Sharkbite makes a product they call a slip coupling designed for inline repairs. One end slides freely on and the other has a "stop" fitting. You would
The tricky part would be step 1. You should be able to fit a plumber's hacksaw in to do the cutting. Once cut, if you ever did need to replace it, the tool to release the Sharkbites should easily slide in.
Even removing the valve on the left to help access is proving tricky due to lack of space. Any ideas?
Use an oscilating multi-tool to remove both pipes. Easy. Don't forget to clean up the cut.
After the pipe is out I would go PEX because soldering the copper-slip connectors sucks even when you don't have tight spaces.
