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I have some adjustable wall shelves I am installing on my wall. I am using the double slotted standards and adjustable brackets. See photo of the wall standards in place. After pricing out solid walnut I learned it would cost me well over $1,500 just for solid walnut for five 1" thick boards that are 12" deep and 84" long. If I buy melamine at the dimensions I need it will cost me $90 and I can buy two 4'x8' veneer sheets of walnut for just over $200.

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I thought about buying a 4'x8' piece of birch plywood that I can rip into 12" wide planks and then I'd attach my walnut veneer onto the birchwood. But there isn't any in stock at my local store. But they have melamine shelving in the exact dimensions I am looking for available which sounds a lot easier and works out to be a few dollars cheaper than buying a 4'x8' piece of birch plywood.

Is there a process to prime melamine to accept a wood veneer? Such as sanding and priming? If so, what are the step? From my reading online I learned that it's best to remove the melamine material but if that's the case I see no point in going that route.

Adrien
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Melamine sheetstock has a shiny plastic skin that won't accept glue or contact cement. You'd have to sand down the glossy surface until it's all matte. Then the glue/cement will stick.

You'll do better getting basic particleboard or flakeboard sheetstock. That can accept glued veneers without needing surface prep.

Even better, get pre-veneered Walnut sheetstock. You might need to go to a cabinetmaker to get 1" Walnut veneer sheetstock. It is available (or was when I was working in a cabinetmaker shop a few years ago). Such material will cost, not nearly $1500, maybe a bit more than the veneer and stock you have now, but it's already veneered, and time is money too.

Triplefault
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For several years I had been looking for info about this topic.

Every "pro" said, "No." I'm a pro, and I will have to try and fail with a few different approaches before I say it cannot be done.

Five years ago, I found an entry by a woman who had claimed success. As soon as I saw "denatured alcohol," I knew she was on to something. It's about completely de-glossing the surface and removing the pebble texture. I did exactly as she had. The results are now five years old, and a sample board has lived all over the kitchen---far closer to heat and water sources that any of the actual cabinet surfaces. It cannot be pried away with a chisel-tipped scraper.

I did those on melamine cabinets I had built from scratch. I had intended to attach a veneered 1/4' sheet to the cabinet ends. When I arrived at that point, I didn't want to add that extra dimension to an entire 32mm, face-frameless project.

Start with 80 grit sandpaper. Use a 4" pad sander---hooked up to a vacuum is even better. Apply normal pressure---let the tool do the work---and keep it moving. If you let it stay in one place, it may sand through. Each sq. foot needs about 1.5 minutes of sanding. That's a really loose estimate. Keep stopping and feeling the surface after you've removed any residual dust.

Direct a strong light source across it. Any place you can still see any sheen at all is not sufficiently sanded. Have at it again, but for short periods and keep rechecking with the light and your fingers.

When that's done, use a green plastic steel wool pad (like you use to clean your outdoor grill) dipped in denatured alcohol. Let all of the fluid drip out, then use a padded-up rag as a backer for you gloved hand. One quick "wash" is all that's needed. Then spray water on it and immediately wipe it down.

You will know when it's ready to accept contact cement when you try to run a dampened paper towel over it. Unlike before you sanded it, it will refuse to glide across the surface, as if it's a tack cloth. Run it over unsanded melamine to see the difference.

When you are sure the entire surface is "de-pebbled" de-glossed, and wiped and washed clean with alcohol and water, and wiped dry, you're ready to go.

Just to add, since I changed my mind and sort of had to do it this way, the cabinets were all installed, so I had to do all of this vertically. Same everything, just keep a drop cloth beneath.

I would use it anyway, but when doing this vertically, you must use GEL contact cement, so it won't drip down.

Hope this is useful. I wish I made note of her name, 'cause she's awesome!

ThreePhaseEel
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Yes you can certainly glue, but know the challenges.

Glueing thin foil to a board was always challenge for me.

I could newer get it perfectly straight on it, so it had to be bigger, so I can trim the edges.

Beside properly preparing the surface, the poly coated boards are nightmare. They feel like teflon, and nothing sticks to teflon.

Apply pressure with hard rubber roller during glue curing.

Overall it takes skill and experience, so start practicing.

DIY75
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