I have 2 older Home Builder garage door openers. Both have hard wired buttons on the wall that work fine for opening and closing.
My remote in my vehicle and another hand held one work to open my door but will not close until I wait for about 3-4 minutes.
If I use my vehicle or hand held remote on my wife's side it will work fine. So it is only my side that will not work using my vehicle or hand held remote.
What could cause this?
When 3-4 minutes has passed since activation, the room light on the garage door opener turns off. This suggests that the light is creating RF interference. Remove the light bulb and see if your remote now works reliably. If so, you may have to do without the opener's room light, or use an incandescent bulb or find an LED or CFL that does not create RF interference.
From what you write, I am taking the following conclusions:
Both openers work properly
This is proven by the hardwired button.
Both your remotes (your vehicle built-in remote and your handheld remote) work properly
This is proven by their ability to operate the opener on your wife's side
From that, we can assume the problem is with the RF interface of the opener on your side.
I would start by checking the antenna on your opener. Make sure it isn't kinked, broken, or tucked up inside the housing. Especially look for differences in the antennas on the openers.
I wouldn't bother troubleshooting the remotes themselves as they've been proven OK.
If the antennas are both undamaged and dangling downward, you can move to troubleshooting more finicky stuff like system board connections, etc. but first try the low-hanging fruit.
I had the same issue with my garage door opener not working with the remote but only while the light was on. Removing the light bulb did not help. I diagnosed and found the large electrolytic capacitor on the circuit board went bad. I removed and replaced the capacitor and it works as good as new.
Details: With a bad capacitor the operating voltage becomes unstable. With the the light bulb solenoid engaged that seems to stress the power circuit even more to the point that the RF system stops working.
The original capacitor was 330uF 35V. I did not have that exact value but I had a bunch of 1500uF 16V capacitors so I put 2 in series to form the equivalent of 750uF 32V. In this case a higher uF is beneficial since its purpose is to smooth the DC voltage produced by the rectifier diodes. The slightly lower voltage rating is fine since the nominal operating voltage is 22V.
This is the final result after repair: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NyngpJCpYHafmWB39
