6

I'm looking for guidance on fixing some cracks before I repaint. I need to make some repairs in a bedroom where a cracked formed where the wall meets the ceiling. It mainly cracked due to settling, and from demolition in the bathroom on the other wall. Also, from being up in the attic walking across the beams while running new recessed lighting.

I don't expect there to be much more stress on the structure since we are done with all of the hammering and banging now. Think these could be repaired with a Flex spackle that Alex caulk makes? I've also seen some people on the web mention they simply chip these areas out and then caulk them, but I can't see how that would work since caulk doesn't sand to give me a clean finished corner. Or, must I do tape and compound? I'm naturally looking for the easiest way out since my compound skills aren't the best since I don't do it regularly, but I will if you all think that's the best way to not get these cracks again.

If I can chip them out and then spackle/compound alone will do the job and hold for 5-10 years before I need to do it again I'll go that route. Otherwise its tape and compound and lots of sanding.

How best to get this trim cleaned up a bit for repainting?

Crack where wall and ceiling meet

RocketManZ
  • 445
  • 2
  • 8
  • 21

5 Answers5

5

Usual method is just to caulk the joint. No real precision required as you'll stop looking at it six weeks after you did it.

Acrylic caulk, wiped in with a finger or just applied carefully from a gun. Has some flexibility [though not as much as silicone] but its paintable with any water-based paint.

Standard fayre for all corners & joins these days & cheap as chips - $£€ 1 for a regular 300ml gun refill. Search term 'decorator's caulk'.

Tetsujin
  • 11,635
  • 1
  • 22
  • 40
3

What I usually do is get some joint compound, mud, and just apply it with my finger running it along the seam. It spreads out evenly and blends in with the ceiling and wall. It's fast, easy and really smooths out with a damp finger.

JACK
  • 89,902
  • 21
  • 80
  • 214
3

I have found if using either acrylic caulk or joint compound or just spackling paste, ( all will work equally well) the wiping is the key.

Using the big tile sponges, such as these is key.

Wet, ring out well and wipe in one direction. Allow to dry and paint and you have an invisible repair.

RMDman
  • 52,615
  • 3
  • 36
  • 113
3

Another solution, if course, is to cover that joint with trim -- painted or stained -- so it looks more deliberate.

For example, in this photo we are looking at the junction over my stairwell; a fancy moulding has been used between ground floor wall and ceiling, two pieces of flat trim handle the transition from ceiling to wall above the stairs, and the transition between that wall and the wall alongside the stairs is a simple fillet of plaster.

Picture of junction over stairwell between lower ceiling, adjacent wall, and wall above steps

Yes, the trim in this case is ceiling-white, while the walls are a pinkish off-white. And I should do something about the cobwebs, I suppose. But it illustrates several different treatments of a plaster right-angle.

keshlam
  • 33,603
  • 5
  • 56
  • 110
2

Until we agree what makes the cracks, then we can apply proper fixing method.

Just filling the crack with anything will not stop the crack from appearing again.

There will be always shear/flexing forces at the joint of two surfaces that create the crack.

The cheapest way is to fill the crack -lowest lifetime

Second option is to use drywall paper tape under the mud.

The strongest option is to use fiber mesh tape under the mud - longest lifetime.

DIY75
  • 20,686
  • 3
  • 23
  • 47