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I came down to the kitchen this morning and noticed that the heat in that room was on. I checked the thermostat, and it was set to 68 (there is no off switch on this one) but was registering about 80 degrees. My smart thermometer in that room agreed - 78 degrees. So I went down to the basement and of the 7 or 8 zones, it was the only one on. At first, I thought I would just turn the valve for that one off, but then worried that it might result in a buildup of pressure (since there was no where else for it to go), so I turned off the big red "emergency off" switch to power the whole thing off. I guess I would hope the boiler has a pressure limit auto-off mechanisms, but it was summer and so I thought there was little cost to turning it all off and it eliminates any potential risk.

Here are pictures of the various zones, the boiler unit and a close up of the zone valve for the malfunctioning zone. Edit 1a: I've added some photos of the thermostat itself - it's an old model.

Our seven zones with valves

Our boiler

The zone valve for the malfunctioning zone

The thermostat in question

thermostat with cover off

another pic of thermostat with cover off

What would cause this? A broken thermostat? Or a broken zone valve? and if it's the zone valve, do I need to replace it with the same model (Honeywell 40004850-001) or can I use a newer model?

Edit 1b: Note: the thermostat is an old-school round one. All the other ones in our house are the more modern digital ones with the standard plug-adapter on the back. But this one looks more attached to the wall, so not sure how easy it is to remove and/or test the wires. Is it easy to remove this kind and replace with the new digital model?

Update: it turns out it was the thermostat. I took it off the wall, and things worked fine. I replaced it with a newer simple two-wire digital heater thermostat, and everything seems back to normal.

Doug
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My best guess would be a bad t-stat. to diagnose: Pull the t-stat off the wall and using a meter measure across the W and C wire terminals. If you get zero voltage it means the t--stat is closed IE: on. That's assuming pulling the stat doesn't disconnect anything. Some models do.

Next: Even if you had a failing zone valve, unless some other zone was calling for heat, the boiler wouldn't be firing.

Please don't throw parts at this. While it looks like complex system (I have something similar), it's just a lot of replication to feed the various zone. It shouldn't be hard to diagnose

George Anderson
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