Windows and doors typically have a king stud & jack stud (trimmer) on each side. The king stud is full height, from the bottom plate to the top plate. The jack stud goes from the bottom plate to the header and the header sits atop this stud.
If you want a taller window you can simply move the header up and the sill down. This will require cutting the cripples to accommodate the new size. As mentioned in the comments, there should be a jack stud supporting the header. I would add one since you're already there.
If you want a wider and taller window you have a bit more work on your hands. Start by supporting the roof section temporarily. I would use some 3/4 plywood on the floor spread out over a couple joist bays. This will support your temp posts, then get some 4x4s and do the following.:
Hold one 4x4 up to the ceiling to act as a temporary beam and attach it to those furring strips with some 3" screws, you'll have to drive them at an angle through the side of the 4x4, then measure the posts, cut them an ⅛ or so big, and wedge them it, secure with a couple screws to the temp beam. You want this whole setup to be wider than your new window.
Now that you have everything supported, you can get to work. Take the window out and get it out of your way, remove the king studs and layout your new window rough opening on the bottom plate. Cut your king and jack studs, header and install. You're likely going to have to cut any nails penetrating the sheathing where you removed any framing members. Nail in your new framing members and cut the sheathing to the new rough opening.
When you install the new window, make sure to center it in the opening. Nail/screw the sides and bottom, I typically don't put any fasteners in the top, it allows the header to move without pinching the window which can cause opening issues.