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I have a 1927 Tudor. The second floor owners bedroom has a 17 foot long knee wall that is clearly load bearing (holds up the rafters). It has two doors in it currently that open into the pretty large cavity. The back side was all shiplap which I took down to see inside and find the layout. I've attached the layout and the options I'm considering here.

The idea was to build a closet system similar to the Pinterest post.

Questions -

  1. Is this doable?
  2. Should I do the 4 closet option instead of the 5 and to avoid the double king stud removal
  3. Anything I should be worried about? Any gotchas? What could I be missing here?

Layout Inside View Closet Wanted Wall View Attic above Ceiling View Shiplap! Opposite Wall Full View

2 Answers2

11

Your knee wall is not clearly load bearing. It may or may not be load bearing. It may also not have been there when the house was first built, added later so the attic could be finished, and has since become a load bearing component.

To really figure this out, consult with a real structural engineer, not strangers on the internet. A house may be built with unsupported rafters. It works fine for the snow load you get with an uninsulated roof. The lumber is fresh and undamaged. Someone decides to finish the attic, puts in knee walls. Insulates the new finished space. House ages, rafters degrade, crack, etc. Now there's more snow load on the inulsated roof that is also somewhat weaker. The knee wall becomes structural. But it's still resting on the same floor and that floor wasn't built to support a knee wall and a roof so your ceilings below crack and the floors sag from the load too. It's not catastrophic but it's a common thing that happens with knee walls/rafters in finished attics. Bottom line is it's complicated.

In theory, if you knock out some studs in that knee wall and put in properly sized headers you should be fine. However, now you are no longer spreading the load evenly across as many joists in the floor below and the floor may not like that. Now you have a wavy floor and cracked ceilings downstairs.

Or maybe that knee wall is strictly cosmetic. Your rafters are thick old timbers, your floor joists are super-strong and in perfect shape. We can't tell. You're also adding a good amount of weight: all that trim and drawers (not to mention the stuff you're putting in there) is going to be heavy. A good structural engineer should be able to give you a better idea.

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As long as your headers are sized adequately, then removing king studs is fine for holding up the roof's gravity loads. Either design is fine in that respect. If you want to be really diligent, then go below to verify that there's a good load path from the jack studs all the way to the foundation, but that seems silly in this case where you're removing single studs.

The "could be missing here" that comes to my mind (not that I have reason to believe it's a problem in your case) is disrupting the structure's lateral system. The IRC uses the term "wall bracing" for the lateral system, e.g. IRC R602.10 and IRC R602.12. The exterior sheets of paneling in modern construction tend to provide this bracing, where removing chunks of those panels can take a structure out of spec. Without wandering around and looking at things, it's difficult to intuit whether your wall provides necessary bracing. If it has shiplap on one side and plaster on the other, then I'm skeptical. Theoretically shiplap could be necessary or unnecessary wall bracing if it has more than one fastener per board per stud (analogous to how the deck boards of an attached deck typically transfer a ledger's stiffness out to unbraced columns).

popham
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