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We bought a home where the handrail for the entry steps was screwed into an anchor in the facade mortar. The anchor has pulled away and left a pretty big hole at the joint:

handrail anchor pulling out of mortar

The front of the handrail is firmly embedded in the sidewalk so I can't change where it reaches the facade, or move it out of the way more than an inch or two in any direction.

I think I need to cut the rusted screw off with an angle grinder, then fill the hole in the wall with some kind of drillable epoxy before replacing the anchor.

Is this a good approach? If so, what kind of filler compound would be appropriate? The home is in a historic district so I want to minimize any change in appearance if possible.

James B
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5 Answers5

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Fix the hole and install in the same place should work.

But another option is:

  • Get a larger metal plate.
  • Connect it securely to the handrail (screws for positioning, glue for extra strength and to eliminate any wobble)
  • Screw the larger plate into fresh holes in the wall.
manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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Yes, your idea sounds like the best bet. Once it's done, it should be unnoticeable. I'd put masking tape on the surrounding brick, in case you get some epoxy slop on it.

Consider removing and refinishing the railing while you're at it. It should be easier than doing it in place.

Mike Baranczak
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Mostly drawn from @freeman comment, but a construction epoxy like Simpson set-xp (get the single tube, not the double) can be pumped into the hole and the same shield and bolt can be pushed back in.

You’ll need to accept that it’ll never come out gracefully and that you’ll need to brace it overnight, pushing the bolt/sleeve combo in tight.

As mentioned in another comment, mask off underneath to prevent unsightly epoxy drool.

Aloysius Defenestrate
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Sleeve anchors and long lag shields are mechanical fasteners that are specifically designed for grabbing in soft spots like that.

Epoxy will work as long as the brick at the back of the holes is still there. For epoxy you would first clean the holes with a brush and compressed air (the canned air for blowing out your keyboard will work for 1 or 2 holes).

Whatever you use, it should be corrosion resistant. "Zinc plated" or "electro-galvanized" anything is insufficient. Lag shields should be die-cast zinc, hot dip galvanized, or some other zinc coating calibrated for outdoors, and the corresponding lag screws should be hot dip galvanized. Sleeve anchors should be stainless steel. Threaded rods used with epoxy should be hot dip galvanized or stainless steel.

popham
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Don't use epoxy. It's not reversible and therefore is not compliant with historical commissions. Use slightly darker brick patch like lithomex from limeworks. Let set for 3-4 days and redrill a new anchor. Use plastic wedge if possible for greater ease of removal later. Using epoxy will create issues unless you have a few extra bricks laying around.

Randy
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