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My GC's put in unfinished stairs during our renovations and now I need to finish them. They never asked if I wanted skirts (which I do) so the stringers are butted against the dry wall.

I can remove everything, install the skirts and put the stringers back but this is difficult as I don't have a sufficient block of time where the stairs won't be used.

Schedule wise, it would be a lot easier for me to cut the skirts (1/2") to fit on top of the stringers (1.5"), after removing the temp treads, but I'm not sure if this leaves me enough support on the end stringers for the finished treads which will be at least 7/8" rift-sawn oak. The treads would be restring on only 1" of the end stringers. The span is 40" and there's a middle stringer.

This is my first time doing stairs but I plan on taking time and doing it properly.

attached pics

zoso060
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1 Answers1

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Cut pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 (whatever you've got lying around) to tread depth and use that as blocking. Then nail these to the side of the stringer under each of the existing treads. (I'd leave the existing temp tread in place to ensure the new blocking is exactly flush with the top of each stringer). A nail gun will make it really easy to reach under and drive a couple of nails. If you have to hand hammer, two nails, one near the front of the blocking and a 2nd farther back will be sufficient to hold it in place until you remove the tread. Once the tread's out of the way, you can put in a few more nails.

Now you can install your skirt board, using some of the existing stringer's depth, but still have plenty of support on the new piece of 2x that you've nailed on.

The pieces of blocking don't even need to be all that precisely cut. They just need to be flush with the top and front of the stringer so they don't interfere with the new treads or the new risers. They can run long into the dead space under the stairs to minimize the precision needed.

FreeMan
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