Questions about hardwood over hardwood

Question

I am looking into getting new flooring. I live in an apartment on the 8th floor. I have parquet basketweave (see image) which is actually in pretty good shape but it's just not my style. It's also still thick, it's possible it's never been refinished. There appears to be just cement underneath, i.e., no other flooring layers.

I'd like to install new solid hardwood but I'm getting conflicting suggestions. The contractors I have met with are suggesting putting the new hardwood over the old, using glue and nailing. But I have also heard that this could lead to problems in a few years and the wood could move. I'm kind of torn. I want to do this right, but I'm guessing if I pull everything up and put down new plywood and then solid hardwood, the price will double. I can't tell if I'm worrying for nothing, and if this movement will really be minimal. I'm also not sure why contractors are suggesting the cheaper path, wouldn't they want to steer me towards the most expensive option?

Where I live it can get humid in the summers but overall I would not expect water to be an issue.

I've also read that if you do hardwood over hardwood, you need to go in the opposite direction for the new layer - but that's not possible, as the parquet already alternates between vertical and horizontal.

Can the original layer be restored in the future? I don't care for it, but I suppose it would be nice to say that it was possible as a selling point, if I ever sell.

Answer 1

About contractors: customers think that contractors want to take the most money out of you, but in reality what a contractor wants is the quickest, easiest-to-estimate, and highest-profit jobs. The best jobs are those where you come in, get out, collect a check, leave a happy customer and move on to the next. Removing an old floor opens up the possibility --however small-- that they'll find something down there that needs repair, which means that they now have to go back to you and ask for more money. And when they do that, you will feel like a hostage with no options because it's not like you can live with a torn-up floor while calling other contractors to bring bids for this extra work. All of this together is why contractors are suggesting to put a new floor over the old one. However, you are still right into thinking that they their suggestions are probably based on what's best for them, not what might be best for you.

About the direction of the new floors: in construction, you always install new layers perpendicular to the old layers: subfloor is installed perpedicular to the joists, new floor perpendicular to the old floor, etc. This does not apply to parquet floors, which do not have a direction. And you stated that you have a cement base. So don't worry about it.

About restoring the old layer: Possible? Yes. Likely? No. Unless we are talking about a floor with historical significance (e.g. original wide-plank old-growth pine), or a floor that has some particular intricate design work, nobody will want the old parquet flooring if you have a nice layer of hardwood floor over it.

About using LVP over the old floors: I install lots of LVP every year and, as an installer, I love it for the reasons RMDman lists in their answer. But for the place I live? No, no, never. Under your feet, it feels like the plastic it is. It looks cheap (IMO), and unlike wood, it does not age well. In my own house I have hardwood floors and wouldn't have it any other way. If your parquet floors were damaged and you were looking for an inexpensive, low-maintenance replacement, then maybe LVP, but in my view, LVP is a downgrade from parquet. It seems that you are looking to upgrade your floor, so I would go with a true hardwood floor. Not engineered, not pre-finished, but true hardwood flooring installed, sanded, and with a nice continuous layer of poly.

About removing vs. layering: If cost were not a consideration, and you were in a house with space for a dumpster and where the materials could be delivered to the front door, I'd say remove the old floors and install new ones. But on the 8th floor of NYC building? Just put a new layer on top. Unless you have unusually low ceilings, you will not notice the difference. And the job will take 1-3 days as opposed to 1-3 weeks.

Answer 2

When on a slab on the ground it is essential that there be a vapor barrier.

Knowing what we know now, all that is not an issue.

You could go hardwood over hardwood. but the thickness is what could give some problems. Seriously consider LVP floating flooring as an option. There are many advantages;

It lays directly over the existing floor with no nails or glue. (Preserves the original floor if you ever want to go back.)

It is thinner than hardwoods, so new floor height is rarely a problem.

It is very durable and waterproof, hard to scuff and scratch (there is some care needed as with wood)

It comes in a wide variety of colors and wood looks and resembles real wood very closely.

It is easy to install requiring no big saws. Most pieces are "score and snap".

In most cases it is cheaper than hardwood flooring.

If you choose to go with LVP pick a product with an overall thickness of 5.5mm minimum.