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So I seemed to have gotten myself into a situation and wondering how to proceed. On the spectrum of the best right way vs the worst way, I want to do a good enough job that I have pride in my work, but at the same time I will be selling this place next year and just looking to get the job done. I think if I were staying here long term, I'd rip out the board and stud.

With that in mind how should I attempt to tackle this not so flat shower wall? From What I can tell, this handyman who added the stud behind this point used a bowed stud and that is where the high point is.(long story; they sucked and arent ever coming back) I did not catch it when it would have been easy to take out and fix it with a flat one. And now that I've laid the floor tile, and banded the floor and wa edge, its not as simple as just unscrewing the kerdi board now. 1 screw is under thinset now.

Where the wall and pan meet it is flat, but as you travel up you can see that it comes off up to 1/4 inch. I will be using 3x10 tile laid vertically and my tile end will be somewhere to the left of kerdi sitting on drywall with a schluter edge.

1 solution I've gotten would be to use a thicker schluter edge and level the tile with thinset. Seems reasonable but not sure how to keep the whole wall flat

Attached are pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tr4otgMDQeW12exM7

ryan paxton
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If the Kerdi is flat until it gets to the drywall, with the exception of the mild dip shown with the level in one of the pics, that is minor in the stall. You can screed that mild dip flat if you choose to, then add the setting thinset after the screed hardens.

The drywall beyond is a different matter, and will be on a different plane after the tile is set. Using the Kerdi as a guide. Various drywall makers produce a dry ready to mix joint compound that is typically called, fast set 20, 40 and 90. Its working times are in reference to the numbering on the bags. Some brands come in a 45 minute version instead of the 40 minute. I failed to mention that when I first wrote about it. But those are the working times in minutes.

No need to get the fast set on the Kerdi, if it does, wipe it off with damp sponge. Use a flat board to use as a screed to get the fist initial build up done. It will be rough, and I mean rough, but when checked with a straight edge, it will be flat across points.

Use those places to use as a reference to get the next coat more smooth but not build up anymore, just fill in the drag spots created by the screed. I typically finish the last coat with regular drywall mud, since it sands smooth much easier that the fast set.

The way I see it, there will be a break in the wall where the tile meets the drywall. The tile will be flat going into the shower, and the wall will be flat from the tile outward.

Jack
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