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I have a Toro 60V 16-inch Chainsaw, model 51850.

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The Product Overview in the online manual lists the chain specs:

  • Bar Length: 40.6 cm (16 inches)
  • Chain Gauge: 0.043 inches
  • Chain Pitch: 3/8 inch
  • Chain Length: 56 links

I purchased an Oregon R56 chain as a spare. That chain matches the manual's specs:

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However, as a novice, it looks like the Oregon chain links are different from the factory Toro chain.

Question:

Is the Oregon R56 the right chain for the Toro 51850? I haven't opened the packaging to fit the new chain because I suspect I need to return it.

Toro-brand chains aren't readily available at my location (Ontario, Canada). I haven't found an Oregon chain that specifically lists Toro as a supported chain on the rear of the packaging. I tried contacting Oregon but haven't gotten a reply yet.

Edit:

I see now the Oregon website says the R56 fits the Toro 51850:

enter image description here

User1974
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3 Answers3

9

Both have anti-kickback features (including the depth-of-cut limiting "fins" in front of each tooth); the slight difference in shape is not a big deal. Those need to be filed to a proper distance below the top of the tooth (which will get lower as the tooth is sharpened, due to the angle on the top of the tooth) to maintain the cutting action. Not filing down the guide fins will cause the chain to cut less and less as it is sharpened until it does not cut at all.

If you're not good with a file, it's highly worthwhile to spend less than the price of a new chain on having your chain professionally sharpened once in a while to get the tooth geometery back where it should be. If you're good at filing a chain there's less need of that.

Unless there's some severe damage you did not picture, your original chain has lots of life left with proper sharpening. But spare chains are good to have, so you can swap one out if you hit a rock or a nail in the tree and it needs major work to be properly resharpened.

Ecnerwal
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6

That chain should fit, but the shape of the blade changes by manufacturer - advance cut, chisel etc and also the part in front of the blade which controls the depth of cut.

Fit the chain to the saw, check it moves freely and adjusts correctly BEFORE starting the saw.

And Oregon IS a good make for both chains and bars, used them on my Husqvarna saws a lot.

Solar Mike
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3

You have highlighted areas you don't need to care about.

For chainsaw compatibility the crucial factors are link length and width, and shape of the inner tooth. These two must match because the teeth must fit on the chain rings on the engine and the blade tip.

The shape you emphasized is critical for your intended use. These shapes define how fast the chain cuts through the wood, how efficiently it throw the debris out of the cut, how fine the cut is and how long it can last.

Sharpen your teeth regularly. With petrol-powered chainsaw some sharpen whenever they refill the tank. With electric I'd suggest sharpening avery oil refill. Few file strokes per tooth is sufficient. The cutting teeth can be as short as 2mm and still working well. For high-load works I'd consider chain worn with teeth 3mm long. The shorter they are the easier they break and the cut gets uneven.

isherwood
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Crowley
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