Replacing a PVC elbow requires six welds?

Question

While doing yard work, I cut a dime-sized hole in an underground schedule-40 PVC pipe (irrigation supply, pressurized when it's on) just where it enters a 90° elbow. I can see how to fix this, but it looks like it's going to require a new 90° elbow and two coupling sleeves, for a total of six welded PVC joints.

1. Am I missing a simpler configuration? I've considered flexible hoses, but I think they might not do well underground—specifically, it seems likely that they would get crushed.

2. If I'm doing this six-welds nightmare, is it better to do all six welds at once, to reduce the risk of breaking an existing joint, or to do a few of them first, let them fully cure, and then finish the job? The natural ordering here (after dry-fitting the whole thing, of course) would appear to me to be to weld the two new short straight pieces into the elbow, let that cure, then do both of the welds on one of the straight couplings (presumably the longer one, to distribute the flex required by the last weld), then the welds on the other, shorter straight coupling.

Answer 1

Yes, that's utterly normal for glued-fitting pipe repairs.

There should be no "nightmare" about it if you have relatively fresh PVC cement, and (with less care for freshness, if there's still liquid in the can) cleaner and primer. Old PVC cement that has gelled is trash, because it won't make a reliable joint. Not using cleaner and primer is asking for a visit from Murphy's Law, but some folks insist on inviting the Fates to come at them.

I date my PVC Cement cans when I buy them, and I do not "bulk buy" cement if I don't have a big project going to use it up on.

Should take 5-10 minutes or so to complete the whole job. I'll attempt to comment on order of operations without seeing the situation - the usual problem with buried repairs is digging out enough pipe that you can actually move it to get the joints together when repairing it. Typically that would be cement one side of the elbow, (the one with more room to move) cement that to the cut off pipe with a coupling, cement the pipe stub to the other broken pipe with the other coupling, and cement the elbow to the second pipe stub. There's no need to wait more than the usual couple of minutes between each joint (do be sure to hold them in place so they can't push themselves out for the first 30 seconds or so) but you do need to wait considerably longer after completing the whole repair before applying water pressure. Consult the directions on the can and a thermometer, as the timing gets longer when it's colder.

Answer 2

"am I missing a simpler configuration?"

YES

There are "clamshell" style repair couplings which you slather with glue and snap around the damaged part. There are several configurations, including a type that addresses damage adjacent to a fitting. I have used these successfully in the past where excessive digging and/or an obstruction made traditional repair difficult.

Answer 3

Maybe you only need 4 joints:

You could use two 45 degree bends if there's enough flexibility in the pipe and room to place the pipe, but if you need to use a slip coupling there will be 6 solvent welds.

Order of operations

When measuring and cutting the pipe allow that when the solvent glue is applied the pipes will go further into the hubs than they do when dry fitting.

You should do a 90 degree twist after mating each piece, so dry fit fist, and mark the pieces so that they end up facing the right direction after twisting. For this a crayon or pencil will work or you can use a marker.

So that it can be twisted, the last piece joined should be both ends of one of the straight parts. With the 45 degree solution the only free straight part is the short pipe, with the 90 degree there there are many more straight parts. Having locking pliers on hand to grip this part that will no doubt be slippery with glue is probably a good idea.

Remember

Follow the instructions on the can. Surfaces shall be clean and dry, use the recommended primer. After fitting Stake the pipes so they can't slip off until the glue sets. Wait 24 hours before applying pressure. Obey any temperature requirements, etc.

If that sounds like too much work

Pipe repair tape is the lazy option, especially if a few underground drips now and then will not be a problem.