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Update: Made a fresh question to discuss the actual wiring up not using the pigtail. Original Question below:


I am trying to add more light into an area.

Currently, I have a 6" recessed all-in-one LED fixture. The recessed LED has a converter that allows it to screw into a traditional light bulb socket. That lightbulb socket is inside a casing which is connected to a metal box where I see the romex connect into it.

The new fixture I want to use is a bigger (1x2ft) LED light (more watts / lumens) with a white/black wire, there also appears to be a ground.

I was wondering if I could wire a socket adapter / pigtail to the new light and then connect it like the old LED using the existing lightbulb socket instead of wiring the new light directly into the romex? I was not sure if the box was just for convenience / to ensure the recessed fixture stays enclosed between changing bulbs, or if it somehow changed how the power supply worked and could only work with certain lights? Looking up the [likely product][2] it talk about air-tight for contact with insulations (note there is no insulation anywhere near this light).

My hope is that using the converter / pigtail is safe as long as I don't exceed the max wattage of the enclosure which appears to be 60W.

If it's not safe or otherwise not recommended to use the existing box, is it okay to temporarily test it with the pigtail so I can see if it actually provide the light I need? The existing box is mounted to the floor supports and I cannot easily get inside if I needed to go back to original after disconnecting (more likely cutting given the space I have).

From the product listing, some people mentioned there was no ground while other did (maybe changed over time or the different sizes?) If the pigtail is okay, should I just connect the ground to the metal enclosure of the old recessed LED or just leave it disconnected? This will be a flush mount to a drywall ceiling, not enclosed in the ceiling in anyway once attached.


Existing Fixture

Enclosure:
photo showing what it looks like with the recessed LED light removed

Wire from enclosure to box:
unscrewed the enclosure, wire from the top of the enclosure to the electrical box

I see on a sticker the following model number info: nhic-17qat v8004, and a search brought this up this Recessed Can Light IC New Construction Airtight Housing More likely this item, look closer: NHIC-17QAT - 6" IC Air-Tight Line Voltage Housing.

The Box:
Electrical box with some wording on it

Additional Photos inside the ceiling:
photos showing the whole bracket system photos showing the whole bracket system

Photos from the new light fixture:

wires on the new light Specifications for the new light


Update: Additional Photos for Discussion:

Clip on the side of the junction box:
Photo of the side of the junction box

Far side of the jbox connectd to rail (would be very hard to access this):
enter image description here

Photo of where the housing for the recessed can connects to the floor truss:
photo of where it connects to the truss

Photo of where the housing connects to the other truss: other truss nailed in

More clear writing on the jbox:
photo on side of jbox\


Update 3: Information from the Housing Manufacturer

I had planned to go to home depot and to look for a similar enclosure to better understand what is inside and what are the possibilities.

I again searched for "nhic-17qat" and found an exact product that looks like mine with that model number: NHIC-17QAT 6" IC Air-Tight Line Voltage Housing. The manufacturer also had some spec and installation information, it looks like if I open open the box using the lever on the side, I could actually disconnect the enclosure and then directly wire in my light?

Based on the information in these documents, could someone help me confirm?

Spec Sheet

Junction Box: Prewired 25 cubic inch 0.064" thick galvanized steel box with seven 1/2” trade size knockouts and snap on covers. All leads are #18AWG wire, the ground wire is connected to the bottom, and quick connectors are supplied on all leads. Maximum of 8 no. 12 AWG through branch circuit conductors suitable for at least 90°C permitted in junction box.

Quick Connect Feature: Housing contains three UL approved push-in wire connectors that allow 1/4" stripped solid or tinned standard wires to be inserted. Connectors are attached to fixture power, common, and ground circuits

Installation Instructions

Screencap from page 2 showing inside the Jbox

screenshot from the pdf instructions showing what it looks like inside the box

Product Photo from the item's website, zoomed in:

actual product photo

My questions

If I understand this correctly, the romex from the mains power is connected to these built in push in connectors as shown in the screen capture from the instructions. I should hypothetically be able to either disconnect the wires that go out to the attached housing and then connect my new lights or if they don't come out, disconnect the romex and then join the romex directly to my lights?

The wires from my light fixture would go through one of the slit openings in one of the circles along the outside of the box? Or do I need to knock those out and replace them with something else that the wire goes through? Does it sound like I should be able to remove the existing one, then use that hole? If not through the slit, I assume the big circle is too big, do I need to get some other type of "thing" that goes around the wire and then fills the circle cut out?

I would assume that if removing the clip allows me to open they would have designed this such that its oriented towards the opening and it should be accessible (maybe not easy) from the existing cut out in the drywall?

Lastly, I would connect the green wire on my fixture into the ground where I see the green wire in the screen capture from the instructions pdf?

If the push-in connectors have 3 holes each, do I even need to remove the ones from the housing? I would keep it connected, but just sitting up there in the ceiling. I read about something called a "socket whip" that maybe you disconnect or switch, but I don't know what/where that is or if this unit has one. Is this just the existing wires that go out to the e26 connector?

HelpEric
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2 Answers2

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You don't need a new junction box and you don't need the light bulb adapter.

From what I can see in the product listing, your new light fixture has an integrated driver that includes a junction box with knockouts.

Remove the cable feeding the old light, and connect it to the new light through one of its knockouts. If it won't reach, leave it connected in its existing junction box, remove the can and the metallic cable feeding it, and install a new piece of rated cable from the old junction box to the new one using an appropriate connector in The knockout.

Perhaps you can even use the metal tail between the old junction box and the can. That would make it easy! But the can end is usually manufactured and not easy to take apart and reuse.

jay613
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2

All wire connections must be in a rated junction box. By using the bulb/pigtail adapter you're leaving connections in the light housing, which is probably not a rated junction box. You can do that to test your new light, but it's not a legal arrangement for the long term.

I would do one of two things:

  1. Remove the existing bulb socket plate. You do this with the wingnut on the side. Disconnect its wire leads. Now make your new connection in the original junction box. I can't see what's behind the bulb socket plate, but maybe you can get the new light's leads into it without modification.

  2. Replace the can with a proper ceiling box. You could mount a 4" round box in a plywood panel the width of the current drywall opening and long enough to lap the drywall on the ends, then slip it through and secure it with three drywall screws on each end.

isherwood
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