This is a textbook application for Dynamic Load Management/EVEMS
This puts CT clamps (current sensors) on your service wires and dynamically adjusts EV charge rate to use only the surplus power in your panel. The fact is, large appliances only use power when they are actively in use, but panels are sized for a reasonable worst case. So there is plenty of spare power almost all the time, and it does not seriously impinge EV charging.
Here's a page that goes much deeper into that.
So yeah. Wallbox Pulsar Plus, Emporia EVSE or Te_la Wall Connector, with appropriate matching power meter, and a data cable between them, in the $800 neighborhood... and you're all set. "That was easy!"
Of course you're saying 50A, and when novices say that, they almost always mean the "RV park outlet" being used properly here by CGP Grey, from 11:15 to 13:15. It was foolishly popularized for home charging by "the crowd". You're not doing that. Good money after bad, in this application.
....Well, you can force it to work with a DCC "dumb load shed" device, a very clunky and costly way to to the above trick. All-on, it will be double the cost of the above (just to get the socket, and you still need to buy the 'charger'). It will be clunky, messier, less usable, and worst of all, higher fire risk because of the many connections. If you already have a 'charger' with that plug, blind pursuit of the matching socket is a great example of "the fallacy of sunk costs". Don't fall for it - just sell it, or better yet, keep it in the trunk for its originally intended purpose, as CGP Grey demonstrated.
I have a situation: a handyman “upgraded” my electric panel in the garage to 200 Amps last year. This year I wanted to install an EV charger and called an electrician. He saw the 200 Amps electric panel and then went outside to check the Main panel and found out that it is supplying 100 Amps to the house (PGE in California).
Yeah, increasingly, "electricians" are a) non-qualified handymen, and b) former electricians bought out by private equity, who send salesmen out to overquote and overcharge for work (since they sub it out to an actual electrician). On top of that, you have all the PG&E nonsense which can quadruple the cost of a service upgrade. It's basically why SPAN exists.
Change of subject, look at your car's tires. I bet it says something like "Speed rating 130 MPH". Is that mandatory? Of course not. Same deal with a 200A panel - it's a never-exceed redline. So... If we disregard lack of license and permit, the "200A panel" conversion was fine as long as the main breaker is a 100A breaker (to protect your service wires from overload).
And actually, having a 200A bus on a 100A service has a neat side-effect: it means you can support solar up to 100A breaker/80A inverter limit.
I then called the original handyman who “upgraded” my electric panel. He came over and agreed that the Main panel is supplying only 100 amps to the house. But he said he’ll upgrade the main panel to 200 amps and there is no need to dig up the underground cable that supplies power to the main panel from PGE
No, he's flat wrong. I mean I'm sure it works for HIM, he has lots of happy customers, but eventually one of them is going to have a really bad day and he won't be around for that (and certainly won't be called back). Also the fire marshal is going to have questions about how that upgrade was done without a permit. Handymen can't get permits. California is notorious for punitive measures toward homeowners do not not pull permits.
Also, come on: PG&E has smart meters. They get kWH used every 30 minutes. They do deep modeling of that data, and they're going to know when your usage reflects having a main breaker > 100A.
That video I linked up top is a 2-part Technology Connections series on fully electrifying a home with the 100A panel. Might be worth reviewing in full: using a Wallbox/TWC/Emporia is your first "dip of the toe" into the marvelous world of load management.
