There are a few different issues involved:
- Actual possible maximum power - that appears to be 47.5A (11.4 kW / 240V).
- Design rating as approved by UL or ETL (or similar) - that appears to be 40A based on "they also list the required power supply as 40 amps"
- Wire rating - 6 AWG aluminum is good for up to 50A
- Receptacle (if cord/plug/receptacle connected instead of hardwired) - this should be a NEMA 14-50, which is the standard for both 40A and 50A.
In general, I recommend hardwiring rather than plug/cord/receptacle. However, that depends on the device and there can be an advantage to plug/cord/receptacle if the new device (a) allows it and (b) the wiring is aluminum and (c) the new device does not allow aluminum wires for hardwired connections.
So the next step is to check the specs, which are available online and clearly indicate "Required Power Supply 40A". While that may seem strange given the Amp Rating of 47.5A (confirmed on that same page), breakers are designed to not trip immediately for a small overload and modern ranges are designed to manage different components and cycle heating elements on/off to keep within the rated power supply. Which means 40A really should be OK.
The installation instructions include very detailed instructions for 3-wire and 4-wire connections and both hardwired (conduit) and cord/plug/receptacle connections. They also indicate aluminum wire is fine (8 AWG or 10 AWG copper, 6 AWG or 8 AWG aluminum).
Note that 10 AWG copper is not normally used for 40A circuits, so I suspect that is permitted only for the cord/receptacle and not for the entire run. Not an issue here as you have 6 AWG aluminum.
If you have a 4-wire hardwired connection and are able to properly attach the existing 6 AWG aluminum wires, great. If you have a 4-wire receptacle (NEMA 14-50) that's also great, but I doubt you have that. If you have a 3-wire receptacle (NEMA 10-50) or a 3-wire hardwired connection then you should consider whether an upgrade is in order. The problem is that your existing cable appears to be a 3-wire cable without a separate ground wire. Which means that replacing with a 4-wire connection requires adding a separate ground wire. It is possible to add a ground wire via a separate route (that has not always been the case) but that can get complicated. Alternatively, now may be the time to replace the cable but that can also get complicated. It all depends on the distance between the range and the breaker panel and how easy/hard it is to run a new cable.