How can I replace subfascia without removing the finished fascia and rain gutter?

Question

The fascia and sub-fascia where my screened enclosure is attached are rotting. Florida house is 41 years old. The roofer replaced some of the sub-fascia and sistered a few rafters 6 years ago.

I realize that to fix this properly, the screened enclosure needs to be removed. I want to avoid this. Maybe in 5-10 years, when the screened enclosure has reached its end-of-life, I will fix this properly. Right now, I don't want the screened enclosure to fall down, and I want the soffit to to be attached (it is nailed to the sub-fascia).

Any tips on removing the rotted wood? A reciprocating saw can be used to cut any horizontal nails. But any vertical nails (nailed from the rooftop) will be difficult to deal with. Maybe use a blacksmith nipper?

How can I attach the subfascia to the rafters? Originally it was nailed from the outside. It could be toe-nailed, or an L-angle could be used. If the rafter end was only slightly rotted, an L-angle might be better. One or two L-angles per rafter? What size nails to use with this L-angle? Can screws be used?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ML-2-in-x-4-in-12-Gauge-ZMAX-Galvanized-Medium-L-Angle-ML24Z/202071147

Answer 1

The wood appears to be mostly gone, so you just need to complete the tedious task of digging out the remainder and cutting any fasteners in the slot. Use whatever small prybars, pliers, chisels, and other tools you have on hand. In problem areas, drill a series of vertical holes alongside fasteners with a spade bit, then break out the small remaining wood along its grain.

For vertical fasteners, a cutoff wheel in a rotary tool (Dremel) works well. Use your reciprocating saw at high speed and low force for the horizontal ones.

Once you have the slot clear, fit your new subfascia. Rather than brackets, which rarely work out as well as you might expect, toe-screw through the rafter tails. Pre-drill the tails so you get a consistent angle and position. You could use a countersink bit for a cleaner finish.

Start holes a bit further away from the rafter end than you otherwise might since they'll pull into the rafter some distance. 3" screws should work well, so drill about 2" back from the joint. Angle to exit the rafter on the end rather than coming out the far side.