Seafoam can be very helpful to an engine, but not specifically to the map and iat sensors. Those are not affected much by carbon deposits, so cleaning them won't really help. See this link for a more detailed discussion.
I once destroyed an engine by spraying too much Seafoam all at once through the air intake. The liquid cannot be compressed like the fuel/air mixture, and I damaged the piston rings. I suggest you pour it into the fuel tank instead. The cleaning effect will actually be better, it will just take more time as you drive the car. I follow the instructions from Seafoam in this video. Don't forget to floor the car, 80-120 km/hr., six times in a row on an open highway!
After researching the ingrediants in Seafoam, I concluded it is best suited for 2-cycle, marine engines. Marvel Mystery Oil is better for a four-cycle car, especially if you follow with a tankful of Berryman's B12 Chemtool (or an equal mixture of acetone-xylene-isopropanol). If Marvel Mystery Oil is unavailable in your country, automatic transmission fluid is practically the same thing. Start with a 3x concentration of MMO, which amounts to 1.2 oz. per gallon of petrol.
Also, use Marvel Mystery Oil (or ATF) in the crankcase oil. Engines much above 90k KM almost always seem to have sticky piston rings & valves. I get better idle, acceleration, and less oil consumption when I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase for 1,000 KM, then change the oil again. If you like Amsoil products, I have used the Engine and Transmission Flush before an oil change to enhance cleaning.
For more detailed tune-up instructions, see this post.
Lastly, Hyundai recommends you use 87 octane petrol. 91 octane is permitted, but will increase carbon build-up with long term use. Use only 87 if the car is running properly.
