Too tall to fit under a car on a lift

Question

So I’m going to school to be an auto tech and it’s the second day of class. We just learned how to put a car up on the lift and we raised it but I’m 6’4 and the lift only goes up to 6’ and when I stand under the car I have to duck my head and hunch over just to fit under the car which is a huge strain on my back and neck because I’m like slouched trying to duck and look up at the same time. Is there any other way I can be under the car without having to duck and look up constantly? Can I just sit on a swivel chair and have it lowered enough that I can reach the car? Is that even allowed or legal? Has anyone else with similar issues found a solution?

Answer 1

Welcome to the trade! I'm glad to see people are still training to be mechanics :o)

Lifts have positive stops on them, meaning, you run the lift up so far, then engage the stops, then lower the lift down onto the stops. At that point you can start working on the vehicle. That would allow you to do as you suggested of sitting on a roll around with the vehicle just a bit taller than your head while still not having to crank your neck over to survive. Once you're done working, to lower the vehicle you have to raise it up some, disengage the stops, then lower the vehicle. There isn't a legality issue here, it's just what's safe and as long as the pads on the arms are placed correctly and the stops are engaged, it doesn't matter if the car is 2" off the ground or 20', it's all good.

With that said, lifts come in varying heights. You can get them to only lift a couple of feet off the ground to much higher than what you are tall. Here's an example which is a Danmar D-8 two post lift, with the pads and screws, lifts the vehicle to over 6'8", which would keep your back from hurting. I'm sure there are taller ones out there, especially if you go to a four post lift (or drive on).

The real fact of the matter is, if you don't work for yourself and don't own your own lift, you are at the mercy of your employer. This isn't trying to dissuade you from being a mechanic, it's just a fact of life. Most of us have to work on our backs without a lift if that gives you any idea. (Full Disclosure: I don't wrench for a living, but have worked on cars for many years and almost never have I had a lift to use ... and I'm 6'2", so not much shorter than you.)

Answer 2

Some lifts (Like my Bend-Pak) have large holes where adapters plug in, and even a set of extensions that raise the pad height.

Normally these are for trucks and SUVs, where you might "burn through" a foot of more of lift capacity before the pad even touches the frame. Other times you have to add the extensions, just to clear the running boards or side steps to avoid crushing them.

You can, however, also use these extensions to get another 6-10 inches of lift, provided you can get them under the vehicle. Some sports cars with low ground clearance are particularly problematic. I've had several cars that had to be jacked up manually with a floor jack, and then placed on jack stands - just to get the lift pads on their lowest setting under the car. Racy skirts and bodywork is no help.

You can use the same technique, with some patience. Raise the car, locate jack stands, and then lower the car onto the jack stands. Add adapters to the lift arms (or flip up the hinged adapters) and then lift again. Unfortunately you'll have to reverse the procedure in order to get the car off the lift and back on the ground.

This, in some cases, adds the needed lift in order to keep your head out of the underpinnings.

I'd also think about investing in a "bump cap". They have them now that are not too geeky - it consists of a baseball cap (that can be worn with the brim to the back) with a hard plastic lining. You might endure some ribbing from your classmates, but your head will thank you. It also keeps oil, coolant, and yucky dirty greasy smutch out of your hair. I'd like to claim you will develop an instinct and no longer need/want to wear it (after smacking your head sharply a few times), but I'm still collecting dents in my skull after 30 years of being under cars.

AT NO TIME should you add blacks of wood or bricks or anything else to increase the lift pad height. Only approved adapters that lock in place are allowed. The only time I've ever thrown in a block of wood is on top of a floor jack, when jacking on an oil pan or something fragile - and only to distribute the weight to keep from cutting or denting the pan.

Paulster is correct; unless there is a ceiling height limitation, most good lifts at a good shop will have enough height to get a vehicle far in the air.

Stay focused and be careful. Eventually if you make A-class Tech at a dealership you could be pulling in 28-36 bucks an hour on flat rate - and potentially turn in 50-60 flat rate hours a week. It's a noble profession, despite the stigma, and today's tech needs math, computer science, and extensive electronic troubleshooting knowledge to work on just about anything.

Best of luck!