Can a "sticks-and-tin" RV be safely driven with part of the stapled-on 1x2 interior framing missing, or is the framing required for siding attachment?

Question

I am currently looking at a used RV which is for sale in my area. The current owner was in the process of redoing the interior, which means that most of the interior framing on one side of the rear of the vehicle has been removed (while on the other side, the framing remains but the interior paneling is gone).

This is the interior on the side where the framing has been removed. The section it has been removed from is about five feet long and extends up to the top of the window (above that, the original wood remains).

This is another view of the same wall, showing where the framing has been removed and where it meets the section in which the original framing remains.

This is the interior on the other side, where the framing remains but the plywood paneling has been removed. The original construction of the wall is visible - sheet metal siding, with interior framing attached via staples which also run through a sheet of insulation between the siding and framing. I'm not particularly familiar with stapled "sticks-and-tin" construction, but it appears that less than a centimeter of staple leg extends beyond the insulation and into the framing - the staples do not appear to have ever been attached to the wood particularly strongly, but they definitely are intended to reach it.

Of course, were I to purchase this vehicle, I would intend to replace the interior framing, as the current owner intended, but I would like to know to what extent it can be driven in its current state, especially since I may need to drive it a bit, including at highway speeds, before I could replace this framing.

My question, then, is this: is the 1x2 framing structural or necessary for attachment of the siding to the vehicle, or does it serve only to attach insulation and interior plywood paneling to the exterior siding? If this vehicle were driven at highway speeds before new framing could be reinstalled, would the siding be at risk of being torn off in the wind and vibration, or is it adequately attached at its ends and to its adjacent pieces of siding for the interior framing to be unnecessary in attaching it?

Answer 1

Ugh. What a mess!

The framing is structural, and you should do something about that before moving it, especially at highway speeds. The aluminum has no vertical rigidity, and the weight of the roof will probably not be kind to it after a few bumps — especially if their is air conditioning or other infrastructure up there!

But first things first: you most certainly have one or more roof leaks, which caused the framing to deteriorate. You should fix roof problems before fixing the inside, or it will just happen again!

This is a conundrum, because the process of fixing the roof will stress the un-supported sides, which may cause them to collapse.

You might consider a tarp on the roof while you fix the walls, but leave the walls open (no interior sheathing) until you are certain the roof is water tight.

As a minimum, as a temporary measure, I'd put a few 2x4s up, flat against the aluminum. You don't want to staple them in, as you don't want to put more holes in your walls. I'd diagonally brace them for strength, and attach them to bottom and top sill plates — if there's anything left of them! That should make it somewhat road worthy until you get it to where the bulk of the work will be done.

I hope you aren't paying very much for this "project!" I know places where there are motorhomes in this condition (or better!) that people are happy if you simply tow them away! In fact, I've recently seen one in even better condition, where the owner paid someone $500 to move it away!