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I live near the artic circle and own a 2011 Volvo V50 (Diesel). Unfortunately I do not have access to an electric outlet, that is found frequently here (all the spots are taken). Normally you would plug in a cable 1-2hours before you leave and it would warm up the fluids of the car. The car also does not have a roof over its head.

Usually there is snow for several months, temperatures below zero (usually around -10C/14F, but occasionally -20C/-4F, seldomly below -30C/-22F).

What precautions can I do to put least strain on my car and what should I avoid?

infinitezero
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3 Answers3

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Some thoughts:

  • Recommended weight oil for your vehicle is 5w30, which is good down to -35 °F. If you're feeling funky, you could utilize 0w-30, which is for "below -40 °F". You might want to err on the side of caution and go with the latter selection, especially if you see it ever get there (-40). You'll want to change it back to the 5w-30 when the weather gets warmer. In any case, use synthetic oils only (Note: Not synthetic blend). They usually flow better in cold weather no matter the weight.
  • Ensure your coolant is good. If you use ethylene glycol normally, coolant is mixed 50/50 antifreeze/water. This can provide protection down to -34.6 °F (36 °C). If this is too close for comfort for you, or you'd just like the extra protection, it can be mixed up to 70/30 which should get it down to -67 °F (-55 °C). The good thing about this is, you can use it year round and should only need to change it at the proper change interval. Make sure you check your antifreeze type to ensure you are using it properly, which will provide you the best protection.
  • Your battery is going to suffer, especially since it is a diesel power vehicle. It takes extra time to heat the glow plugs (I'm assuming your Volvo is so equipped). It will take extra cranking time to get it started. It will have a lot of slow cranking (most likely) because of thicker oil. All of these things (and more) take a toll on your battery. Have the battery health checked to ensure it's up to the task for the winter.
  • When starting the vehicle in the extreme cold side of things, ensure you give it proper warm up time. Don't rev it right off the bat as you need to get lubrication to all the vital components ... while there are other vital parts, the main thing I'm thinking of is the turbocharger. Warm up time could be a minute or several, but is going to take some time. Until you get some heat into your oil so it is flowing like it should, you run the risk of doing damage to the bearing(s) in your turbo. This is usually not an inexpensive piece to replace, so treat it well.
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
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The single most important factor in starting a diesel engine in very cold temperatures is cranking speed. This is because a diesel achieves fuel ignition by heating the air in the cylinder by compression. If compression takes place too slowly, heat of compression bleeds off into the cold walls of the cylinder, piston and head before ignition temperature is reached. Glow plugs help by warming the air in the cylinders before compression, but glow plugs do not directly ignite the air-fuel mixture. Some engines such as Dodge Cummins diesels have no glow plugs, but have electric air heaters through which the intake air passes.

So how can you maximize cranking speed?

  • Use the proper engine oil for your temperature range. Check your manual and use the motor oil with the lowest viscosity that is approved for your car at the expected temperature range. This may be a full-synthetic oil with an SAE rating of, for example, 0W-20. (The number before the W is the cold-weather viscosity.)

  • Use a car battery with the highest "Cold Cranking Amps" (CCA) rating that will physically fit in the battery tray. Although your car's recommended CCA might be 700 or 800, there is no such thing as too much CCA. If an 1100 CCA battery will fit with no clearance issues, you can use it.

  • Have the battery tested each fall (or test it yourself if you have the equipment) before the coldest weather sets in. A proper battery test involves subjecting the fully charged battery to a heavy load of hundreds of amps for up to 15 seconds, and testing battery voltage at the moment before the load is disconnected. There is no substitute for heavy a load test. It will reveal problems that are impossible to detect with a simple voltage check. If the battery fails the test or is just marginal, replace it before winter.

  • Avoid short trips that will run down your battery. Living near the arctic circle, most driving in winter involves headlights, seat heaters, heat blower on full and maybe a rear window defogger. After running your glow plugs and cranking your starter, your battery needs voltage, current and time to recharge, and all these accessories running while the battery is trying to recharge will lengthen the time required. Short trips kill batteries.

It goes without saying that you need to keep your engine in top condition with all required maintenance if you expect it to start reliably. Quality, winterized diesel fuel is also essential to prevent wax particles from clogging your fuel filter. If extreme cold, say down to -40F or lower is expected, you can use a diesel fuel additive that is intended to prevent fuel gelling. You'll know that your fuel has gelled if the engine starts and runs fine for a couple of minutes, but then it stalls for no apparent reason.

TIP: If your engine has glow plugs and a "wait to start" light on the instrument panel that stays lit while the glow plugs are heating up, you can "double glow" in extreme cold if you have a good battery. Turn on the ignition, wait for the "wait to start" light to go out, turn off the ignition, turn it back on and wait for the light to go out a second time, then start the engine immediately.

(I've been driving diesel cars and trucks for 35 years, so I speak as a graduate of the School of Hard Knocks! My daily knockabout car is a model year 2000 diesel sedan which still starts and runs great. It has been down to -18F here in New Hampshire in the years I have lived here.)

MTA
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In addition to what has already been said,

  1. You can install a Webasto or similar block heater, that runs on diesel. This will allow you to preheat the engine, reducing wear, emissions, help it start easier without access to a plug.

  2. Block off the grill. This will allow the engine and engine bay reach operating temperature more quickly. This is especially important for the battery, since a frozen battery will not fully charge no matter how long the engine is on. Depending on your engine bay's layout, there's a chance the battery simply won't ever reach operating temperature when it gets really cold, without some outside assistance.

  3. Maybe a bit extreme, but you can remove the battery and store it indoors if it's really cold and you know you won't be driving for a while. Quick release terminals can make this more practical. Though your car might not like it. Mine just loses radio presets and needs some time to learn how to idle properly after the battery is removed. Your milage may vary.

  4. You can also install a 12v battery warmer, essentially a heating element glued to the side of the battery. It runs when the engine is on (and voltage is above some limit like 13v). This will allow the battery to come up to temperature and fully charge every time you drive the car, keeping it healthy.

IsAGuest
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