Heat is energy, energy can't be destroyed or created. Resistive heat appliances (vs. harvesting appliances like heat pumps) convert electrical energy to heat at 3142 btu's per kw/h. Doesn't matter if the appliance is a light bulb, TV, or some type of portable heater. You can't get more or less energy out than energy in. Take a look around Amazon some time looking for heat output of 1500 watt heaters. Numbers will vary a little for manufacturing tolerances and marketing, but all will be marketed at 5000 to 5120 btu's per hour.
If your heater is damaged and is using more energy it is putting out more heat. Checking current draw with an ammeter is a little difficult, you have to isolate one wire which usually means working in front of a hot electrical panel and turning the heater on and off. If your heater is a typical 120v plug in heater there are line splitters that allow testing at the plug, but you will almost never see one available retail.
The biggest effect of corrosion is it will change the ability of the element to dissipate heat. Usually corrosion does not make good surface contact and heat will build up at the point of corrosion and may destroy the element. The element isn't using any more energy or putting out more heat, it just isn't shedding it well.
If enough conductive build up is present and makes contact between elements or points on the element then a "short" current path can be created. A shortened path has less accumulative resistance, current will flow faster, will use more energy and will put out more heat until a breaker or other thermal protective device trips or the element itself burns up and opens the current path.