Are the hangers on these joists sized and installed properly?

Question

The hangers on these joists seem too small, and some of the nails are right near the bottom edge of the supporting ledger. Are they ok?

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Note: This question was prompted by discussion on another post. I have no further details to provide.

Answer 1

I guess the answer would be: only a structural engineering report can answer this. You have such issues to consider as the span and dimensions of joists, the required load to be carried, the carrying capacity of the beam, the type of nails, and the actual strength of the hanger itself. One of these factors is bound to be weaker than the others, but it can just be no worse than what's specified. That's the most precise answer to the question.

My perspective is that with every craftsman a devotee to Belt and Suspenders®, if the joists are 2 by 10, those hangers need to be 2 by 10 hangers. A 2 by 10 hanger has 10 nail holes on the beam side to carry load from the joist to the beam. A 10d nail is rated to carry 75 lbs for a total load transfer of 750 lbs per joist. Obviously, the scenario in the picture can't use this because the I-beam is probably fitted with 2 by 6 or another lumber, but Simpson has a wide range of hangers for each intended application. One should plan the depth and number of nails to achieve at least 750 lbs, but at the end of the day, the engineering report has all the details.

Another minor quibble is that I have doubts about nails in the direction of failure. The lower nail is toenailed into the hanger, angled at nearly 45 degrees since it would obviously split the wood otherwise. Minor deflection in the beam or joist will pull this nail loose with time. You get optimal structure by nailing flush with the hanger. Again the hanger product has directions on this.

Answer 2

There's a part number stamped on the bottom. look that up and read the instructions, it will cover the suitability of that hanger.

I suspect that taller hangers should have been used here, or the joists should have been notched as there is very little wood below the lower nail to the beam

If you want professional help try a building inspector, I'm expecting a "That aint right" for this work.

Answer 3

What I have seen allows that 2X4 hangers will work for 2X6s, 2X6 hangers will work for 2X8s and 2x8 hangers will work for 2X10s. This is according to the manufacturer of the hangers. These appear to be 2X6 hangers on a 2X10.

These hangers, in this situation are not sufficient.

Answer 4

Those appear to be Simpson Strongtie face mount hangers. I can't be sure because I can't read the stamp clearly. And they appear to be LUS26 hangers holding 2x10 joists. Again, a guess because there are no measurements provided. Sawn lumber connection manufacturers publish complete specs for the components they make and sell. For example, Simpson Strontie produces, among dozens or hundreds of other documents, a matrix that summarizes the specs for their face mount hangers: https://ssttoolbox.widen.net/view/pdf/giyt98mijo/C-C-2024_p108-112.pdf?t.download=true

So, if this is a Simpson Strongtie LUS26 holding a 2x10, that's the wrong hanger.

Also of concern is that the board that is bolted to the steel beam appears by be a 1x. These hangers require a 3" fastener into the header. 0.75" is insufficient. I'm guessing from the picture that those are 1.5" 10d TCo's holding the connector. I can't tell if they were cut to 0.75" or if they were driven into the steel. The connection manufacturer probably provides information regarding fastening the connectors directly to the steel beam either by welding or using an appropriate metal screw. And it's likely possible to fur out the connection by using a piece of 1x lumber, as long as the appropriate faster is used.