Identify this (contradictory and potentially mislabeled) electrical device

Question

This GFCI receptacle claims, as far as I can tell, to be multiple things, and I am hoping someone here can clarify for me.

Here is the sticker. You can see that it says 2 Pole, 20A, 125v 60Hz.

And here is the front of it If you look ignore my red marker "15" and look at the text that is actually structurally part of the unit then you will see that it says 125v 15A 60Hz. You will also notice the "Spec Grade" text on the right.

And on the back You can see that it has two each of hot inputs, hot outputs, neutral "inputs", and neutral "outputs". That plus the grounding screw makes for nine connection points.

I see no evidence that this is a Frankenstein item or a kludge or something like that. My Klein Tools plug tester will fit both outlets just fine, and the plates for catching backwiring (NOT backstabbing) function just fine. The bonding screws are the correct colors, and Line and Load are clearly labeled. The prong holes on the front are clearly for a 15A receptacle.

Am I looking at a 15amp GFCI with a wrong sticker (that will be fine to put on a 15amp circuit) or a 20amp GFCI that was mislabeled at the factory (that I definitely should NOT put on my 15amp circuit)?

Answer 1

There are two different ratings, due to NEC rules:

• Receptacles - the part you can actually plug into - have different physical layouts for 15A vs. 20A. This unit has 15A receptacles (NEMA 5-15). A 15A circuit (defined by having a 15A circuit breaker or fuse) can only have 15A receptacles. A 20A circuit (defined by having a 20A circuit breaker or fuse) can have 15A and/or 20A receptacles, with the one exception that if there is exactly one receptacle then it must be 20A. A duplex receptacle (like this example) counts as two receptacles even though it is only one device.
• Wiring and GFCI protection - the "guts" of the device. This can always be oversized. If it is rated for 15A then it can only be installed on a 15A circuit. If it is rated for 20A then it can be installed on a 15A or 20A circuit.

The end result of all of this is that:

• Ordinary (not GFCI) duplex receptacles are most common with NEMA 5-15 receptacles instead of 5-20 receptacles, but the pass-through wiring is rated for 20A. Why? That allows the exact same receptacles to be used on any 15A or 20A circuit in a house, whether new or retrofit. New circuits in kitchens and bathrooms have to be 20A, but older circuits might not be and receptacles in other rooms might be 15A even if they are brand-new circuits.
• GFCI duplex receptacles follow the same pattern of 15A receptacles with 20A circuitry, allowing them for new or retrofit usage on 15A or 20A circuits.
• The vast majority of consumer equipment (toasters, hair dryers, blenders, lights, phone and tool chargers, TVs, computers, vacuum cleaners, etc.) has a 5-15 plug so that it will work on a 15A or 20A circuit.

In other words, it is a bit of a Catch-22. Builders, electricians, etc. will continue to use 5-15 receptacles for everything because it makes their lives (and inventory) simpler - one of each item (ordinary duplex receptacle, GFCI duplex receptacle, etc.) for both 15A and 20A circuits. Which means the consumer appliance/equipment manufacturers continue to target 15A circuits even though most houses built in the last 40 years have at least some 20A circuits available because this lets any device be plugged in to any receptacle anywhere in any house, old or new, kitchen/bathroom or other rooms, etc.

Despite all of this, there is still a benefit to 20A circuits in kitchens and bathrooms (and sometimes other rooms) because it allows much more safe use of multiple appliances (e.g., toaster and coffee maker) without nuisance trips than 15A circuits allow. The 20A GFCI rating is key to making that work.

Answer 2

As stated in other answers, the GFCI portion is rated for 20 A for pass-through purposes, but it is equipped to fit a 15 A socket.

The reason you see the seemingly mismatched parts is because this outlet is spec grade. Those typically use triple-wipe contacts for better retention under wear. That is, if you were to take the faceplate off, you'd find the neutral contact is a 20-amp T style (and possibly the live side too). To make them a 15 A socket, they just change the plastic face piece. This is true for non-GFCI outlets as well.

So yes, it is a bit of a Frankenstein outlet, but it's normal, accepted, and actually better.

Answer 3

Normal for 15A receptacles to be rated for 20A passthrough, as 15A receptacles can be installed on 20A circuits so long as there are at least 2 of them (i.e. one duplex, or two singles, or more.)

In this case you appear to have a GFCI rated for 20A with 2 NEMA 5-15R outputs. While that's somewhat unusual (most 20A GFCIs are built with 2 NEMA 5-20R outputs) there's nothing inherently wrong about it, and it removes the code issue that you can't install a NEMA 5-20R on a 15A circuit.

It will work just fine on your 15A circuit, and due to the choice of receptacle, it will be legal, as far as I can tell. It would also work and be legal on a 20A circuit. The line and load connections are presumably suitable for 20A passthrough as labeled. But the 15A receptacle type allows installing on 15A circuits. The extra capacity is no harm - the code issue barring NEMA 5-20R's on 15A circuits is purely one of the receptacle type. For a pro, it means stocking one part number will cover both types of circuit, other than the unicorn 20A where someone actually needs to plug in a NEMA 5-20P (which exists, but is almost never seen on actual appliances in the wild.)